Before you start
- A kanga (about 150 × 110 cm) or a piece of kitenge
- A mirror
Kanga and kitenge: what’s the difference?
A kanga (also spelled khanga) is a lightweight, printed cotton cloth worn across East Africa, especially in Tanzania and Kenya. Each kanga has a border (pindo), a central design (mji) and a Swahili saying (jina or ujumbe) printed along it. They are traditionally sold in matching pairs, one to wear as a skirt and one for the shoulders or head.
A kitenge (or chitenge) is a thicker, wax-print or batik fabric, usually bought by length and often sewn into dresses and shirts, but it can also be tied like a kanga.
Method 1 Wrap skirt
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Step 1: Find the top edge
Hold the kanga lengthways behind you, with the saying the right way up and the bottom border near your ankles.
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Step 2: Wrap around the waist
Bring one end across the front of your body, then wrap the other end over it so the edges overlap at your hip.
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Step 3: Secure it
Roll the top edge down once or twice and tuck it in tightly, or tie the two top corners in a knot at the side.
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Step 4: Adjust the length
Fold the top edge over before wrapping for a shorter skirt.
Method 2 Simple dress
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Step 1: Wrap under your arms
Hold the kanga lengthways behind your back, at chest height under your arms.
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Step 2: Cross the ends
Bring both ends to the front and cross them over your chest.
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Step 3: Tie or tuck
Tie the two top corners in a firm knot above your chest, or twist them and tuck them in. Add a belt or a second kanga at the waist for shape.
Method 3 Shoulder wrap or shawl
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Step 1: Fold it
Fold the kanga in half lengthways to make a long scarf.
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Step 2: Drape it
Place it over your shoulders or one shoulder. For extra warmth or modesty, drape it over your head and shoulders.
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Step 3: Secure it
Knot the corners loosely in front, or use a brooch.
Method 4 Head wrap
A larger kitenge piece can be tied higher and fuller, in the sculpted style worn for celebrations.
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Step 1: Fold into a band
Fold the fabric diagonally into a triangle, then fold from the long edge into a band about 10–15 cm wide.
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Step 2: Wrap it
Place the centre of the band at the nape of your neck, bring both ends up and over to the front, and cross them over your forehead.
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Step 3: Finish
Bring the ends back around and tuck them into the wrap at the back, or tie them in a knot or bow at the front or side.
Method 5 Beach cover-up or halter
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Step 1: Wrap from behind
Hold the kanga lengthways behind you at chest height.
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Step 2: Tie behind the neck
Bring the top two corners forward, cross them over your chest and tie them behind your neck.
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Step 3: Adjust
Let the bottom hang loose, or tie a belt at the waist.
Troubleshooting
My skirt keeps slipping
Roll the waistband down tighter, tie a knot instead of tucking, or wear a belt over it.
The head wrap keeps sliding off
Wear a satin cap or headband underneath, and tie the first wrap firmly at the nape.
The kitenge is too stiff to tie
Wash it once to soften it, or use it for sewn garments and a softer kanga for tying.
Frequently asked questions
How big is a kanga?
Usually about 150 × 110 cm (60 × 43 inches), sold as a pair called a doti.
Can men wear a kanga?
Kangas are mostly worn by women. Men in coastal East Africa often wear a kikoi, a striped cotton wrap tied around the waist.
Is it OK to wear kanga if I’m not East African?
Yes, kangas are widely sold and worn, including by visitors. Wear them respectfully and learn what the saying means.
Summary
Wrap a kanga or kitenge around your waist and tuck or knot it for a skirt, tie it above your chest for a dress, drape it over your shoulders, or fold it into a band for a head wrap. Choose a saying that suits you, wash it gently in cool water, and dry it in the shade.
