Before you start
- A sharp razor (or an electric shaver or trimmer)
- Shaving gel, cream or oil
- An alcohol-free moisturiser or aftershave balm
Razor burn vs razor bumps
Razor burn is redness, stinging and itchiness straight after shaving, from friction and a blunt blade.
Razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) are small, sometimes painful or dark bumps that appear a day or two later, when shaved hairs curl back and grow into the skin. They’re especially common in people with curly or coarse hair, including many Black men.
Method 1 Prepare your skin
-
Step 1: Soften the hair
Shave at the end of a warm shower, or press a warm, wet cloth on the area for 1–2 minutes. Softer hair cuts more easily.
-
Step 2: Exfoliate gently
A few times a week (not right before shaving if your skin is sensitive), use a gentle scrub or a cleanser with salicylic or glycolic acid to free trapped hairs.
-
Step 3: Use a shaving product
Apply a shaving gel, cream or oil and leave it for a minute. Avoid shaving with soap or dry skin.
Method 2 Shave the right way
-
Step 1: Use a sharp, clean blade
Replace blades or disposable razors every 5–7 shaves, or sooner if they tug. Rinse and dry the razor after use and store it upright.
-
Step 2: Find the grain
Run your hand over the area. Hair grows in the direction where it feels smooth. On the neck, it often grows in several directions.
-
Step 3: Shave with the grain
Use short, light strokes in the direction of hair growth. Let the razor do the work; pressing hard causes cuts and irritation.
-
Step 4: Rinse often
Rinse the blade after every stroke or two so hair and foam don’t clog it.
-
Step 5: Don’t over-shave
Avoid going over the same area many times, stretching the skin tight, or shaving against the grain if you get bumps.
Method 3 Aftercare
-
Step 1: Rinse with cool water
Rinse off leftover product and pat dry with a clean towel.
-
Step 2: Soothe and moisturise
Apply an alcohol-free aftershave balm or moisturiser. Products with aloe vera or niacinamide calm the skin.
-
Step 3: Keep the area clean
Avoid tight clothing over freshly shaved legs, underarms or bikini area for a few hours.
Method 4 If you get razor bumps often
-
Step 1: Switch razors
Try a single-blade or safety razor, which cuts hair at skin level rather than below it.
-
Step 2: Leave a little stubble
Use an electric trimmer or clippers with a guard to leave about 0.5–1 mm of hair. The hair can’t curl back into the skin.
-
Step 3: Shave less often
Give your skin a few days between shaves.
-
Step 4: Free ingrown hairs carefully
Don’t pick or squeeze bumps. Use a warm compress and gentle exfoliation; if a hair loop is visible, a clean sterile needle can lift it, but never dig.
Troubleshooting
I always cut myself
Replace the blade, use less pressure, shave slower around the jaw, knees and ankles, and make sure there’s enough gel or cream.
My skin stings after shaving
Use an alcohol-free aftershave, avoid fragranced products, and rinse with cool water.
I have dark marks from old bumps
These usually fade over months. Daily sunscreen helps; ask a dermatologist about treatments if they persist.
Frequently asked questions
Is it better to shave against the grain?
It gives a closer shave but greatly increases irritation and bumps. Shave with the grain, especially if you’re prone to them.
Electric shaver or razor?
Electric shavers and trimmers are less likely to cause bumps; razors give a closer finish. Choose based on your skin.
Can I shave with hair conditioner?
Yes, in a pinch. It softens hair and lets the razor glide better than soap.
Summary
Soften the hair with warm water, use shaving gel and a sharp, clean blade, and shave with the grain using light strokes. Rinse with cool water and moisturise without alcohol. If you’re prone to razor bumps, use a single blade or a trimmer that leaves light stubble, exfoliate gently, and see a dermatologist for persistent bumps.
